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Project Failures text...

A failed hand exercising object
from the research project DAAN (Design Ambient Adaptive Environments)
at Design Research Lab, Berlin University of the Arts

The prototypes are a collection of sensor samples and shapes that were developed in the frame of an academic research consortium on «Ambient Assisted Living.» As e-textile designers our interests, from the start of the research, focused greatly on material and interaction explorations. We got enthusiastic about industrially knitted stretch sensors and investigated screenprinting with thermochromic inks as ambient notification channel.
Despite our practical knowledge the project failed from a lack of a conceptual background and unstable premises. Indeed, this object's identity was never properly defined and remained somewhere in between a therapeutic object, a musical instrument and a friendly technological pet…
We understood that a design artifact can not perform in any satisfying manner if it does not address a clear research question. After we had recognised it, the failure helped us to get back to a stronger methodological approach to pursue with the research.






-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_- bio tech unfinished


    Hands-on session
    After the Springbreak workshop given by Adrian Freed and Martin de Bie at Wassaic in April 2018
    // use of a 555 timer circuit in order to synthetise sound through oscillations [reformulate] and trigger various sounds using conductive materials

    ___ details to be added ____


    <-----------------------------------------------------------------------------20 June------------------------------



        Interview
        
    -What does Fashion ecology mean to you ? how does it influence your design practice?:
        *

    -What are the methods and techniques explored during the masterclass?:
        * prototyping/ assemble a 555 etextile synthetizer from a kit with necessary parts
        * iron on a circuit - solder electronic parts - 
        * copy the example, pay attention to some polarities
        > Through hands-on workshop I intend to open minds and give keys for people to get started or at least get convinced that everybody has a say in it, by making it themselves - hopefully with low costs.
        
    -How do you see the relation between e-textiles and sustainability nowadays? and how do you address it in this workshop?:
        * WICKED FABRICS http://etextile-summercamp.org/2017/summercamp/discussion/
        * I understand sustainbility for etextiles at different levels. It relates to environmental concerns of course, but also to our everyday practice and furthermore the social impact we can make. 
        * Questionning the current and future projections while defining and spreading best practices is for me the most relevant priority.
        * the presentation was meant for inspiration and to open minds while the hands-on workshop was rather a traditional etextile one, without LEDs though. 
        of course I had to make compromises because of limited time > had to prepare all the parts before hand, 
        > Concretely during the masterclass I had to make compromises because of time limitation, cleanliness of the hosting Atelier Néerlandais. As for the waste generated by this I saved it for a project this summer, and in general I don´t through away conductive parts ... 
        
        
            
        Panel discussion 
        
    " You can prepare the following questions since the discussion will focus on the relation between nature and technology and the potential of bio-tech and digitalisation when it comes to sustainability and a fashion ecology. "


    - What's in your "nature-toolkit"? What does it mean to look at nature? :
        * harvesting - flânerie > always have to bring something back (a shell from the beach, a stone from the river, a wood stick from the forest...)
        * DIY conductive materials > gold leaves (hobby shop)
        *
         
    - How does fashion tech relate to nature? :
        * inspiration 
        * material innovation
        * 
        
    - Examples of your work / projects related to biotech / digitalisation:
        * design fiction (etextile rituals, la mère ceremony) 
        *  waste is beautiful
        
    - What's the role of technology in that? :
        * can technology and its accessibility/ democratization allow for reconnecting us to nature?
        * 

    --- moved to   ----


        Group discussions:



    TCBL Textile and Clothing Business Labs
    4ears European projets Horizon2020 www.tcbl.eu

    Frédérique Thureau & Clea

    ecofoot-print reduced by 20%

    more environment conscioussness better use of savoir-faire
    new trends of the customers growing against fast fashion
    enterprise ntreating in an ecosystem horizontally > work collaboratively, horizontally, with younger generations

    * Mindset:
        * curiosity - viability - durability - multiplicity - openess - respect 

    * Business pilots:
        *demonstrating we could do things diffferently :
            
            * bioshades : 
                * using industrial dyeing is a pb for the entire industry,
                * demonstration of an alternative
                
            * digital heritage :
                * how to digitalize designs and textiles
                
            * natural cotton : 
                * from the growers to the users of the textiles
                
            * eco-friendly production :
                * tracabiltity
                
            * independents :
                * how to help ecosystems of companies, 
                * tools from bigger companies 
                * to think quiker > use professional tools
                
            * short runs
    eample of
    Clea from Coco&Rico
    cocoetrio.om
    Manufature against fast fashion - ethical and sustainable smll quantities  - vegan material - based in Paris - all proess 
    "Slow fashion manufature"
    R&D - Worth> design new process of production, circular design "more human way" 
    Tool and work stations for more efficient


    * conclusion :
        * 805 Labs as of June 2018 in Europe (33 Slovenia)
        * successful platform for the actual testing of new business models that are important for the fashion industry
        * Conference in Prato end of May
        * 420 tests :
            * what works or not
            * and why
            * dissemination 
            * what is to improve
        * rovide KPI "hard" and "soft"



    -_-_-_-_-_-_-_- PAD - unsorted 

    Updated 20180623

        * Parts For Presentation: 
            
            * Sustainability :
                * opportunity to discuss the concept of ''sustainability'' as it relates to various parameters, not all of them are addressed equaly by the selected projects. (environment, work conditions, ethics, business model)
            
            * Bacterial Cellulose, see wikipedia // Microbial Cellulose, see article
                * (as a material, cellulose was first discovered in 1838 by Anselme Payen)
                * (the discovery of cellulose produced by bacteria, specifically from the Acetobacter xylinum, was accredited to A.J. Brown in 1886 with the synthesis of an extracellular gelatinous mat)
                
                * ''growing fashion'' http://acontrerasfilm.co.uk/growing-fashion/
                
                * Bio couture // Suzanne Lee
                
                * Kombucha for vegetal leather, bacterial cellulose grown and dried, resulting in a thick membrane // second skin 
                
            * Kombucha as sensor // Organum vivum from Paul Seidler
                * human + musical instrument (alive kombucha as electrical properties of conductivity and resistivity)
                
            * Synthetic biology https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Synthetic_biology
            
            *Examples For 3D printing:
                * Eco-friendly 3d printing filament
                * PHAbulous filaments by Austrian Saphium Biotechnolohoies are plastic filaments for 3D printing made from microbes containing poly-hydroxy-alkanoates (entirely biodegradable and natural soil fertilizer)
                * Wollowflex filament by Berlin-based BioInspiration are bio-polymers filaments for 3D printing made from non-modified corn starch >> cradle-to-cradle / upcycling
                * filament made from a mix of biodegradable PLA and algae
                
            * Raune Frankjaer, PhD candidate at Aarhus University, Denmark // reconfiguring human and non-human relationships through digital-material storytelling
            
                * ''Sympoietic Technology''
                
                * Critical anthropomorphism (that we [humans] attribute human intuition to non-human livings)
                
                * ''textility''
                
                * The BIOdress: A Body-worn Interface for Environmental Embodiment
    by Sara Adhitya (University College London), Beck Davis (Griffith University), Raune Frankjaer (Aarhus University), Patricia Flanagan (University of New South Wales), Zoe Mahogny (University of New South Wales)
    Proceedings of the TEI´16: Tenth International Conference on Tangible, Embedded, and Embodied Interaction 
    pdf: https://dl.acm.org/citation.cfm?id=2856345
    http://frankjaer.de/the-biodress-a-body-worn-interface-for-environmental-embodiment-2/

    Abstract: This paper will discuss the development of a body-worn interface facilitating the communication between humans and their environment. The aim is to allow the wearer to understand the state of their natural environment through an extended state of embodiment. First, it will discuss our motivation for sustainability and the need to change our anthropocentric attitude to a more holistic one which includes the natural environment. Then, it will discuss how clothing can be seen as an immediate way of embodiment, and how computational technology and connection to the Internet of Things can contribute to   the development of wearable interfaces which expand our notion of the human body to include our natural environments. It will then introduce the BIOdress, a body-worn interface facilitating interspecies communication with a goal to create an expanded   network of embodiment. The overall objective is to encourage human empathy beyond the anthropocentric towards more sustainable development.
                
            * Florian Weil, independant researcher and creative technologist, Berlin, Germany
            
            * Carole Collet, researcher at Central Saint Martins, London, UK
            
            * Terra 0, project by Paul Seidler 
    technological utopia 
    + landscape with a legal status (Whanagoui river in NZ) 
    + augmented ecosystems 
    + bio-economy 4.0 
    + DAO (decentralized autonomous organisation)
    = self-government infrastructure applied to a piece of land, in this project a forest

    http://ftlab.com/portfolio/

            * ANTHROPOCENE
    https://network.wearsustain.eu/actors/AVz0YJXYQOlYgiHmIrfF  https://www.theadventureinstitute.com/

                *HKW...
    https://www.hkw.de/en/programm/projekte/2014/anthropozaen/anthropozaen_2013_2014.php
            






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