Natural Colours (Inks / dyes ...)



< STUB >
<pau

I started this page as I got asked many times things on natural pigments used as inks (paper, wood...)...
AND also it should be a useful page for textile colours !
I started this page as I got asked many times things on natural pigments used as inks (paper, wood...)...
AND also it should be a useful page for textile colours !
### (merge/translate) Cette page vise à collecter informations et expériences en lien avec les pigments naturels, différents matériaux et procédés.
Chacun peut éditer le document et compléter avec ses connaissances.
En cas de question : pau@totalism.org

Revisions:
    20190108 start
    20190714 rebirth
        <<< colour workshop preparation...
        ### NOT DOCUMENTED WELL !!!
    20191106 total revision @AADK [unfinished]
    20191128 much needed closing windows @barcelona
    20210613 D+L ping

Ties to:
    🔗hypertextile
    ###




*** KEY PRINCIPLES

to document


INK vs PIGMENTS
:
    * with walnuts "green" or "hull" -> https://joybileefarm.com/how-to-make-ink-from-natural-dyes-part-2/
        ""
        The recipe is a historic one that contains the dye liquor from walnut hulls, the green, fleshy husk that wraps around the hard brown walnut shell, as well as iron to darken the ink with a chemical reaction between the tannic acid in the walnut hulls and iron, plus gum arabic orgum tragacanth as a thickener, and isopropyl alcohol as a preservative.
        ""

    * [...]


----------
Tanins (special case)
à vérifier: il me semble que les tanins sont des pigments qui se fixent naturellement...
ils peuvent également être utilisés en mordants bien qu'ils assombrissent la couleur. est-ce vrai ?



MORDANTS


PROCESSES


APPLICATIONS

  * textile 
(more below)


  * paper
+Jeremy

Procédés d'impression
    (trempage, au pinceau, ...)

Fixatifs


  * enduit
+Fabienne

Fabrication / Recettes

Fixatifs
:
    * fixateur pour enduit naturel d'argile -> https://www.biologement.fr/hydrofuges-et-finitions/404-fixateur-pour-enduit-naturel-d-argile.html
    * sel d’Alun fixateur badigeons et stucs chaux -> https://www.eco-logis.com/boutique/enduits-terre-et-chaux/sel-d-alun/


  * [...]




*** TEXTILE PROJECTS <pau

This will document an existing practical experience.



KITCHEN RESTS @Paris [2013]

samples and processes documentation kept @Paillard


  * Curcuma
:
    * doesn't hold in the sun light


  * Onion skins
:
    * [...]


  * Clementine skins
:
    * [...]


  * Chesnut
:
    * used milk as mordant




TINCTORIAL WALKS @Berlin [2017]

notebook with silk samples




WORKSHOP TESTS @Paillard [2019]

poorly documented


  * Cochenilla


  * Campwood





TESTS @Blanca [2019]
+Marcy +Giuliana

#todo
    * mountain & river plants walk
    * photo documentary
        <<< started @aadk
    * plant stories? (local?)
    * [...]

------------
* search for Isatis tinctoria -> https://www.gardenia.net/plant/Isatis-tinctoria-Dyers-Woad
    also https://www.researchgate.net/publication/287204512_Isatis_tinctoria_L_an_ancient_dye_plant_of_interest_as_a_multifunctional_crop
* check phragmites @river
* also CHROZOPHORA TINCTORIA (Tornasol) -> https://pemarlo.blogspot.com/2013/09/
    ""
    Los árabes en España teñían sedas, lanas y linos con tintes extraídos de esta planta (de ahí su nombre específico de "tinctoria"). También ha tenido un uso medicinal como febrífugo aunque en la actualidad sus propiedades medicinales parecen haber sido descartadas.
    ""
------------


  * Eucalyptus (river)
:
    * leaves -> colour, tea, ...
    * bark -> colour
    * wood pupl -> paper [didn't achieve it]

----------
probably it is "Eucalyptus globulus Labill."
so "Tasmanian Blue Gum"
    * lots of uses -> https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Eucalyptus+globulus
    * dye recipes -> https://sallyblake.com/eucalyptus-dyes-1/
    * more infos -> http://stuartxchange.org/Eucalyptus.html
    * tried https://flygurlblogwordpress.com/2016/02/15/eucalyptus-dyeing-part-2/ (more https://flygurlblogwordpress.com/2016/02/09/eco-dyeing-with-eucalyptus/ )

---------
#invasive uhuh -> https://www.kcet.org/redefine/invasive-species-week-the-blue-gum-eucalyptus


  * pomegranate & walnut skins (garden)


  * agave fibers
(and drinks)




   (others == not for colours###)

:
    * Nerium oleander L. (river) aka "poisonous flower thing"
    * https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Asparagus+albus
    * https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moricandia_arvensis -------> https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/search/all/?term=Moricandia%20arvensis uhuhuh #derive
    * stem juice as "lettuce opium" from Lactuca serriola L.
    * medic http://www.walnuttincture.com/


###unsure @AADK
:
    * capres ?
    * [...]




    (more)

* plantas de Murcia -> https://pemarlo.blogspot.com/2013/09/
* poplar (peuplier) by the river



<-------------------------------------------------------- (new)(now)






*** #TOMERGE


*** TEINTURE sur textile
+Fred


Principes teinture [termes | vocab]

* grand teint
* faux teint
* [...]



Mordançage / Mordants


    * symplocos [@Paillard]
<<< want to use this for the workshop !

* from Indonesia
* aluminium hyper-accumulating trees
    <<< leaves contain 3% aluminium
* produced by Bedali Fundation, NGO in Indonesia
* distributed in France, Provence by Couleur Garance


-------------
How to use it ?
    * http://plantmordant.org/symplocos/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Plant-Mordant-Project-Recipes-version-2.pdf
        * calculations made with weight of dry textile


Percentage in dye bath:
    * with tannins pigments ~20%
    * with most of natural pigments ~50% (recommendation)
<<< the more symplocos used, the less dye pigment


Water quality:
    * NO HARD/calcareous WATER !!!
    <<< use distillated water, rain water, soft water...
    --- TIP ---
        to use tap water add 0.5g cream of tartar per liter


Cellulose fibers:
    * pre-bath in castor oil ???
        #totry
    * tannin process
        "" Soak the fiber in a solution of gall nut extract 10% WOF at 60ºC (140ºF) for 60 minutes.""
        "" well suited to protecting the lightfastness of the dye""

-------------

    * crème de tartre

    * sel d'alun

    * sulfate de fer ou cuivre

    * potasse de x ?

    * chrome

    * [...]




Couleurs


    * noir [@Paillard]

BOIS DE CAMPECHE
:
    * Mexique, baie de Campêche (espagnols)
    * cultivation Amérique du Sud (colonies aux Antilles, Brésil, jusqu'en Inde)
    * guerres coloniales entre Espanols et Britanniques
    * principe tinctorial :
        * hématoxyline
        * néoflavanoïde
        * hématéine (oxydation de l'hématoxyline)


    * bleu
"it's the elephant in the room"

INDIGO
:
    * procédé de teinture particulier
        * préparation de cuve par fermentation
        * chimie et oxydation
        -------------
        ref:
            * http://wemakecollective.com/how-to-mix-your-indigo-dye-bath/
            * http://www.prepchem.com/synthesis-of-indigo/
            * http://www.ecotonethreads.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/IndigoDyeRecipeSmall-File.pdf


Fixation

[...]



*** PAD


à chercher

* tanins + fixation d'azote ?



Essential oils [DIY]

Easy cooking -> https://www.diynatural.com/diy-essential-oils/

DIY distiller:
    * https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Essential-Oil-Extractor-Distiller/
    * [book] The Secrets of Building an alcohol producing still

Infused oils -> https://www.savvyhomemade.com/make-your-own-essential-oil/



<-----------------------------------------------------------------------((new))


###no-idea why I researched this###
#alcohol #mordant ???
https://www.livestrong.com/article/182664-healthy-alternatives-to-isopropyl-alcohol/


#hemp
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/05/19/organic-fabric-manufacturers-hemp/


#database #geolocalisation #maps
https://eol.org/pages/486253


#database #systematics
http://www.theplantlist.org/tpl/record/kew-2360753