Natural Colours (Inks / dyes ...)
< STUB >
<pau
I started this page as I got asked many times things on natural pigments used as inks (paper, wood...)...
AND also it should be a useful page for textile colours !
Revisions:
20190108 start
20190714 rebirth
<<< colour workshop preparation...
20191106 total revision @AADK [unfinished]
20191128 much needed closing windows @barcelona
20210613 D+L ping
Ties to:
🔗hypertextile
###
Table of Contents
1 | *** KEY PRINCIPLES |
1.1 | INK vs PIGMENTS |
1.2 | MORDANTS |
1.3 | PROCESSES |
1.4 | APPLICATIONS |
2 | *** TEXTILE PROJECTS <pau |
2.1 | KITCHEN RESTS @Paris [2013] |
2.1.1 | * Curcuma |
2.1.2 | * Onion skins |
2.1.3 | * Clementine skins |
2.1.4 | * Chesnut |
2.2 | TINCTORIAL WALKS @Berlin [2017] |
2.3 | WORKSHOP TESTS @Paillard [2019] |
2.3.1 | * Cochenilla |
2.3.2 | * Campwood |
2.4 | TESTS @Blanca [2019] |
2.4.1 | * Eucalyptus (river) |
2.4.2 | * pomegranate & walnut skins |
2.4.3 | * juniper berries |
2.4.4 | * "eco-print" & mordant |
2.4.5 | * agave fibers |
2.4.6 | (others == not for colours###) |
2.4.7 | (more) |
3 | *** #TOMERGE |
4 | *** TEINTURE sur textile |
4.1 | Principes teinture [termes | vocab] |
4.2 | Mordançage / Mordants |
4.2.1 | * symplocos [@Paillard] |
4.3 | Couleurs |
4.3.1 | * noir [@Paillard] |
4.3.2 | * bleu |
4.3.3 | * bruns |
4.4 | Fixation |
4.5 | Extra : Screen-printing |
5 | *** PAD |
5.1 | liens |
5.2 | à chercher |
5.3 | Essential oils [DIY] |
¶INK vs PIGMENTS
:
* with walnuts "green" or "hull" -> https://joybileefarm.com/how-to-make-ink-from-natural-dyes-part-2/
""
The recipe is a historic one that contains the dye liquor from walnut hulls, the green, fleshy husk that wraps around the hard brown walnut shell, as well as iron to darken the ink with a chemical reaction between the tannic acid in the walnut hulls and iron, plus gum arabic orgum tragacanth as a thickener, and isopropyl alcohol as a preservative.
""
* [...]
----------
Tanins (special case)
à vérifier: il me semble que les tanins sont des pigments qui se fixent naturellement...
ils peuvent également être utilisés en mordants bien qu'ils assombrissent la couleur. est-ce vrai ?
:
* with walnuts "green" or "hull" -> https://joybileefarm.com/how-to-make-ink-from-natural-dyes-part-2/
""
The recipe is a historic one that contains the dye liquor from walnut hulls, the green, fleshy husk that wraps around the hard brown walnut shell, as well as iron to darken the ink with a chemical reaction between the tannic acid in the walnut hulls and iron, plus gum arabic orgum tragacanth as a thickener, and isopropyl alcohol as a preservative.
""
* [...]
----------
Tanins (special case)
¶APPLICATIONS
* textile
(more below)
* paper
+Jeremy
Procédés d'impression
(trempage, au pinceau, ...)
Fixatifs
* enduit
+Fabienne
Fabrication / Recettes
Fixatifs
:
* fixateur pour enduit naturel d'argile -> https://www.biologement.fr/hydrofuges-et-finitions/404-fixateur-pour-enduit-naturel-d-argile.html
* sel d’Alun fixateur badigeons et stucs chaux -> https://www.eco-logis.com/boutique/enduits-terre-et-chaux/sel-d-alun/
* [...]
* textile
(more below)
* paper
+Jeremy
Procédés d'impression
(trempage, au pinceau, ...)
Fixatifs
* enduit
+Fabienne
Fabrication / Recettes
Fixatifs
:
* fixateur pour enduit naturel d'argile -> https://www.biologement.fr/hydrofuges-et-finitions/404-fixateur-pour-enduit-naturel-d-argile.html
* sel d’Alun fixateur badigeons et stucs chaux -> https://www.eco-logis.com/boutique/enduits-terre-et-chaux/sel-d-alun/
* [...]
¶TESTS @Blanca [2019]
+Marcy +Giuliana
#todo
* mountain & river plants walk
* photo documentary
<<< started @aadk
* plant stories? (local?)
* [...]
------------
* search for Isatis tinctoria -> https://www.gardenia.net/plant/Isatis-tinctoria-Dyers-Woad
also https://www.researchgate.net/publication/287204512_Isatis_tinctoria_L_an_ancient_dye_plant_of_interest_as_a_multifunctional_crop
* check phragmites @river
* also CHROZOPHORA TINCTORIA (Tornasol) -> https://pemarlo.blogspot.com/2013/09/
""
Los árabes en España teñían sedas, lanas y linos con tintes extraídos de esta planta (de ahí su nombre específico de "tinctoria"). También ha tenido un uso medicinal como febrífugo aunque en la actualidad sus propiedades medicinales parecen haber sido descartadas.
""
------------
+Marcy +Giuliana
#todo
* mountain & river plants walk
* photo documentary
<<< started @aadk
* plant stories? (local?)
* [...]
------------
* search for Isatis tinctoria -> https://www.gardenia.net/plant/Isatis-tinctoria-Dyers-Woad
also https://www.researchgate.net/publication/287204512_Isatis_tinctoria_L_an_ancient_dye_plant_of_interest_as_a_multifunctional_crop
* check phragmites @river
* also CHROZOPHORA TINCTORIA (Tornasol) -> https://pemarlo.blogspot.com/2013/09/
""
Los árabes en España teñían sedas, lanas y linos con tintes extraídos de esta planta (de ahí su nombre específico de "tinctoria"). También ha tenido un uso medicinal como febrífugo aunque en la actualidad sus propiedades medicinales parecen haber sido descartadas.
""
------------
¶ * Eucalyptus (river)
:
* leaves -> colour, tea, ...
* bark -> colour
* wood pupl -> paper [didn't achieve it]
----------
probably it is "Eucalyptus globulus Labill."
so "Tasmanian Blue Gum"
* lots of uses -> https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Eucalyptus+globulus
* dye recipes -> https://sallyblake.com/eucalyptus-dyes-1/
* more infos -> http://stuartxchange.org/Eucalyptus.html
* tried https://flygurlblogwordpress.com/2016/02/15/eucalyptus-dyeing-part-2/ (more https://flygurlblogwordpress.com/2016/02/09/eco-dyeing-with-eucalyptus/ )
---------
#invasive uhuh -> https://www.kcet.org/redefine/invasive-species-week-the-blue-gum-eucalyptus
:
* leaves -> colour, tea, ...
* bark -> colour
* wood pupl -> paper [didn't achieve it]
----------
probably it is "Eucalyptus globulus Labill."
so "Tasmanian Blue Gum"
* lots of uses -> https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Eucalyptus+globulus
* dye recipes -> https://sallyblake.com/eucalyptus-dyes-1/
* more infos -> http://stuartxchange.org/Eucalyptus.html
* tried https://flygurlblogwordpress.com/2016/02/15/eucalyptus-dyeing-part-2/ (more https://flygurlblogwordpress.com/2016/02/09/eco-dyeing-with-eucalyptus/ )
---------
#invasive uhuh -> https://www.kcet.org/redefine/invasive-species-week-the-blue-gum-eucalyptus
¶ * juniper berries (bought @Bergen)
https://partridgepineandpeavey.wordpress.com/2019/08/30/how-to-dye-with-juniper/
https://partridgepineandpeavey.wordpress.com/2019/08/30/how-to-dye-with-juniper/
¶ * "eco-print" & mordant
:
* process details -> https://joybileefarm.com/ecoprint/
---------- #tocheck
* https://hummingbirdwoodlandstudio.blogspot.com/2018/08/eucalyptus-eco-printing.html
* https://www.fiberartsy.com/how-to-ecoprint-on-paper/
* https://www.instructables.com/id/Eco-Printing-on-Paper/
* https://www.madebybarb.com/2017/11/12/stunning-silk-eco-printing/
* https://krex.k-state.edu/dspace/bitstream/handle/2097/9118/Haar%20Eco%20Prints%202011%20KSU%20Sustainability.pdf?sequence=1
* [.,.]
:
* process details -> https://joybileefarm.com/ecoprint/
---------- #tocheck
* https://hummingbirdwoodlandstudio.blogspot.com/2018/08/eucalyptus-eco-printing.html
* https://www.fiberartsy.com/how-to-ecoprint-on-paper/
* https://www.instructables.com/id/Eco-Printing-on-Paper/
* https://www.madebybarb.com/2017/11/12/stunning-silk-eco-printing/
* https://krex.k-state.edu/dspace/bitstream/handle/2097/9118/Haar%20Eco%20Prints%202011%20KSU%20Sustainability.pdf?sequence=1
* [.,.]
¶ (others == not for colours###)
:
* Nerium oleander L. (river) aka "poisonous flower thing"
* https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Asparagus+albus
* https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moricandia_arvensis -------> https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/search/all/?term=Moricandia%20arvensis uhuhuh #derive
* stem juice as "lettuce opium" from Lactuca serriola L.
* medic http://www.walnuttincture.com/
###unsure @AADK
:
* capres ?
* [...]
:
* Nerium oleander L. (river) aka "poisonous flower thing"
* https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Asparagus+albus
* https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moricandia_arvensis -------> https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/search/all/?term=Moricandia%20arvensis uhuhuh #derive
* stem juice as "lettuce opium" from Lactuca serriola L.
* medic http://www.walnuttincture.com/
###unsure @AADK
:
* capres ?
* [...]
¶ (more)
* plantas de Murcia -> https://pemarlo.blogspot.com/2013/09/
* poplar (peuplier) by the river
<-------------------------------------------------------- (new)(now)
* plantas de Murcia -> https://pemarlo.blogspot.com/2013/09/
* poplar (peuplier) by the river
<-------------------------------------------------------- (new)(now)
¶ * symplocos [@Paillard]
<<< want to use this for the workshop !
* from Indonesia
* aluminium hyper-accumulating trees
<<< leaves contain 3% aluminium
* produced by Bedali Fundation, NGO in Indonesia
* distributed in France, Provence by Couleur Garance
-------------
How to use it ?
* http://plantmordant.org/symplocos/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Plant-Mordant-Project-Recipes-version-2.pdf
* calculations made with weight of dry textile
Percentage in dye bath:
* with tannins pigments ~20%
* with most of natural pigments ~50% (recommendation)
<<< the more symplocos used, the less dye pigment
Water quality:
* NO HARD/calcareous WATER !!!
<<< use distillated water, rain water, soft water...
--- TIP ---
to use tap water add 0.5g cream of tartar per liter
Cellulose fibers:
* pre-bath in castor oil ???
#totry
* tannin process
"" Soak the fiber in a solution of gall nut extract 10% WOF at 60ºC (140ºF) for 60 minutes.""
"" well suited to protecting the lightfastness of the dye""
-------------
* crème de tartre
* sel d'alun
* sulfate de fer ou cuivre
* potasse de x ?
* chrome
* [...]
<<< want to use this for the workshop !
* from Indonesia
* aluminium hyper-accumulating trees
<<< leaves contain 3% aluminium
* produced by Bedali Fundation, NGO in Indonesia
* distributed in France, Provence by Couleur Garance
-------------
How to use it ?
* http://plantmordant.org/symplocos/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Plant-Mordant-Project-Recipes-version-2.pdf
* calculations made with weight of dry textile
Percentage in dye bath:
* with tannins pigments ~20%
* with most of natural pigments ~50% (recommendation)
<<< the more symplocos used, the less dye pigment
Water quality:
* NO HARD/calcareous WATER !!!
<<< use distillated water, rain water, soft water...
--- TIP ---
to use tap water add 0.5g cream of tartar per liter
Cellulose fibers:
* pre-bath in castor oil ???
#totry
* tannin process
"" Soak the fiber in a solution of gall nut extract 10% WOF at 60ºC (140ºF) for 60 minutes.""
"" well suited to protecting the lightfastness of the dye""
-------------
* crème de tartre
* sel d'alun
* sulfate de fer ou cuivre
* potasse de x ?
* chrome
* [...]
¶ * noir [@Paillard]
BOIS DE CAMPECHE
:
* Mexique, baie de Campêche (espagnols)
* cultivation Amérique du Sud (colonies aux Antilles, Brésil, jusqu'en Inde)
* guerres coloniales entre Espanols et Britanniques
* principe tinctorial :
* hématoxyline
* néoflavanoïde
* hématéine (oxydation de l'hématoxyline)
BOIS DE CAMPECHE
:
* Mexique, baie de Campêche (espagnols)
* cultivation Amérique du Sud (colonies aux Antilles, Brésil, jusqu'en Inde)
* guerres coloniales entre Espanols et Britanniques
* principe tinctorial :
* hématoxyline
* néoflavanoïde
* hématéine (oxydation de l'hématoxyline)
¶ * bleu
"it's the elephant in the room"
INDIGO
:
* procédé de teinture particulier
* préparation de cuve par fermentation
* chimie et oxydation
-------------
ref:
* http://wemakecollective.com/how-to-mix-your-indigo-dye-bath/
* http://www.prepchem.com/synthesis-of-indigo/
* http://www.ecotonethreads.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/IndigoDyeRecipeSmall-File.pdf
"it's the elephant in the room"
INDIGO
:
* procédé de teinture particulier
* préparation de cuve par fermentation
* chimie et oxydation
-------------
ref:
* http://wemakecollective.com/how-to-mix-your-indigo-dye-bath/
* http://www.prepchem.com/synthesis-of-indigo/
* http://www.ecotonethreads.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/08/IndigoDyeRecipeSmall-File.pdf
¶Extra : Screen-printing
#studying
* https://www.researchgate.net/publication/311957904_Screen-Printing_of_Cotton_with_Natural_Pigments_Evaluation_of_Color_and_Fastness_Properties_of_the_Prints/link/5b1e4b6245851587f29fe57d/download
* https://www.eastlondonprintmakers.co.uk/course/screen-printing-with-natural-dyes/
#studying
* https://www.researchgate.net/publication/311957904_Screen-Printing_of_Cotton_with_Natural_Pigments_Evaluation_of_Color_and_Fastness_Properties_of_the_Prints/link/5b1e4b6245851587f29fe57d/download
* https://www.eastlondonprintmakers.co.uk/course/screen-printing-with-natural-dyes/
¶liens
* impression au bloc avec mordançage: http://www.grahamkeegan.com/block-printing-with-mordants/
* mix de tannins: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008A9MFHY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B008A9MFHY&linkCode=as2&tag=dyeblog-20
"" This is a mixture of tannins with a tannin content of approx. 75%. It is the bisulfited extract of the bark of the Schinopsis lorentzil tree. ""
Other general links #tocheck
* https://soewnearth.blogspot.com/2012/11/natural-dye-article-1.html
* https://www.madebybarb.com/2017/10/06/eco-printing-natures-miracle/
* https://www.herbalmusings.com/herbs-to-dye-for
* [...]
* impression au bloc avec mordançage: http://www.grahamkeegan.com/block-printing-with-mordants/
* mix de tannins: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008A9MFHY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B008A9MFHY&linkCode=as2&tag=dyeblog-20
"" This is a mixture of tannins with a tannin content of approx. 75%. It is the bisulfited extract of the bark of the Schinopsis lorentzil tree. ""
Other general links #tocheck
* https://soewnearth.blogspot.com/2012/11/natural-dye-article-1.html
* https://www.madebybarb.com/2017/10/06/eco-printing-natures-miracle/
* https://www.herbalmusings.com/herbs-to-dye-for
* [...]
¶Essential oils [DIY]
Easy cooking -> https://www.diynatural.com/diy-essential-oils/
DIY distiller:
* https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Essential-Oil-Extractor-Distiller/
* [book] The Secrets of Building an alcohol producing still
Infused oils -> https://www.savvyhomemade.com/make-your-own-essential-oil/
<-----------------------------------------------------------------------((new))
###no-idea why I researched this###
#alcohol #mordant ???
https://www.livestrong.com/article/182664-healthy-alternatives-to-isopropyl-alcohol/
#hemp
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/05/19/organic-fabric-manufacturers-hemp/
#database #geolocalisation #maps
https://eol.org/pages/486253
#database #systematics
http://www.theplantlist.org/tpl/record/kew-2360753
Easy cooking -> https://www.diynatural.com/diy-essential-oils/
DIY distiller:
* https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-Your-Own-Essential-Oil-Extractor-Distiller/
* [book] The Secrets of Building an alcohol producing still
Infused oils -> https://www.savvyhomemade.com/make-your-own-essential-oil/
<-----------------------------------------------------------------------((new))
###no-idea why I researched this###
#alcohol #mordant ???
https://www.livestrong.com/article/182664-healthy-alternatives-to-isopropyl-alcohol/
#hemp
https://www.trustedclothes.com/blog/2016/05/19/organic-fabric-manufacturers-hemp/
#database #geolocalisation #maps
https://eol.org/pages/486253
#database #systematics
http://www.theplantlist.org/tpl/record/kew-2360753